Guide to Wasdale Head: Where to Stay & What to Do

Wasdale is the most remote valley in the Lake District. Our first-hand guide covers how to get there, the best hikes, things to do, and where to stay, from campsites and country inns to youth hostels and B&Bs.

I’ve been coming to Wasdale Head for over 40 years — I first climbed Scafell Pike from here at the age of seven, and I’ve been drawn back ever since.

What makes it so special is how wild and remote it feels. A single-track road follows the shore of Wastwater and simply stops at a dead end, ringed by the highest mountains in the Lake District. From there, the only way onward is on foot.

There’s almost nothing here: one country inn, a tiny B&B, a couple of campsites, a little shop, and England’s smallest parish church.

Day trippers pour in to climb Scafell Pike, but early mornings and evenings are wonderfully quiet. I’ve stayed here both camping and in the inn, and both times felt properly away from everything.

This guide covers how to get to Wasdale Head, what to do once you’re there, and where to stay. For other areas to stay, read our best places to stay in the Lake District.

Where Is Wasdale

Wasdale is on the western edge of the Lake District and is one of its most remote valleys. Tucked into the valley is Wastwater, England’s deepest lake, and surrounding the lake are England’s two highest mountains (Scafell Pike and Scafell) and its most striking (Great Gable).

The area is known for its brooding, remote beauty and provides some of the best views in the Lake District.

Map: Wasdale

To help you get your bearings, below is a Google Map of Wasdale.

Wasdale Head is at the north-eastern end of the valley, where you will find the famous Wasdale Head Inn.

The northern end of Wastwater is called Lakehead (1-mile from Wasdale Head). Here you will find the National Trust Campsite and the beginning of the easiest route up Scafell Pike.

I have marked the best places to stay (purple), the best things to do (red), parking spots (blue) and the bus stops on the Wasdale Explorer (brown).

Things to Do in Wasdale

1. Best Hikes

Scafell Pike – The most popular walk in Wasdale is up Scafell Pike. The route up Brown Tongue and Hollow Stones is the easiest and quickest (2h 45m)route up England’s highest peak, but also the least interesting.

However, if you complete a circuit by coming down the Corridor Route and then Moses Trod, it is a great day in the mountains. Full details are on Scafell Pike Easy Route.

Scafell – A Grade-1 scramble up England’s second-highest peak, this route follows the easy route up Scafell Pike, but then veers right up a tight gully filled with rubble (Lord’s Rake), then crosses the West Wall Traverse, to scramble up the last section of Deep Gill. Descent is via Burnmoor Tarn. A long, tricky but fun day in the mountains.

Great Gable – The route up Great Gable from Wasdale is steep, relentless and unforgiving. It’s not the most exciting route up a mountain but the views from the summit are excellent.

Mosedale Round – One of the most challenging circuits in England, the Mosedale Horseshoe traces a ridgeline over Yewbarrow, Red Pike, Scoat Fell, Steeple and Pillar. There is exposed scrambling (which can be avoided on a lower path), but the rewards are 5 Wainwrights and great views.

2. St. Olaf’s Church

England’s smallest church, this tiny stone chapel is nestled beneath towering yew trees in the shadow of the fells. The roof beams are said to be salvaged from a Viking ship. Just a 5-minute walk from Wasdale Head Inn and Campsite.

3. Greendale Mires

Sitting on the western side of Wastwater beneath Buckbarrow Fell, this Site of Special Scientific Interest is a peatland habitat now rare in West Cumbria. It’s home to specialist plants like sundew, bog asphodel, cranberry, and even the scarce intermediate bladderwort.

I love to come here for the stunning views and photo opportunities. Islands jut out into the lake, making the perfect foreground for images. In the background, the near-vertical slopes of loose rock that make up Scafell Screes tumble into the lake.

Parking here is difficult unless you arrive early in the morning or in the evening after the crowds have gone. Another benefit of staying in the valley.

4. Wild Swim in Wastwater

I can tell you from first-hand experience that Wastwater is chilly. You’d expect nothing else from the deepest lake in England in one of its coldest counties. But come on a warm, clear day when there is no wind, and it is a magical experience.

The best spot is Greendale Mires SSSI; it’s one of my favourite wild swims in the Lake District. If you don’t have a car, you can get in near the Lakehead Campsite.

5. Climbing

Wasdale is the premier climbing destination in the Lake District. I am not a climber but those in the know head to:

• Napes Needle and Napes Buttresses on Great Gable
• East Buttress, Broad Stand and Pike Crags on Scafell
• North Climb and New West on Pillar’s summit

6. Saw MILL Cafe

I’ve spent my fair share of wet days in Wasdale, and whenever that happens, I head to the Saw Mill Cafe. A lovely little cafe serving good coffee and light bites in Nether Wasdale,

7. Wasdale Head Inn

No stay in Wasdale Head is complete without visiting the Wasdale Head Inn. The Ritson Bar serves locally brewed ale, with tables in the wood-panelled bar room or outside with amazing views of the mountains.

The food’s good too. I (almost) always have the Steak and Ale Pie. Next door, The Barn Door Shop sells all sorts of walking equipment.

Where to Stay in Wasdale

Guesthouses, Hotels, Inns & B&Bs

Wasdale Head Inn

I love staying at the Wasdale Head Inn. A proper old-school hikers’ inn, stunningly set at the end of Wasdale. The rooms are a little dated, but the rest is an atmospheric joy.

A musty lounge packed with climbing books. A wood-panelled dining room serving a choice of cooked breakfast with views over Kirk Fell and Lingmell. A lively bar full of tired legs, locally brewed ales, and some high-quality pub meals.

Situated where Black Sail Pass and Moses Trod meet, it’s a great location for getting onto the mountains. Packed lunches are available for £11 (sandwich, chocolate bar, drink, and biscuits or crisps). Free parking included and well-behaved dogs welcome in specific rooms.

Burnthwaite Farm B&B

I have not actually stayed here, but have walked past it many times. It’s just a 10-minute walk from the Wasdale Head Inn and often has availability when the Wasdale Head Inn is full.

The Burnthwaite Farm B&B is well-rated, and by all accounts, the breakfasts are excellent. Free parking is included, and pets are welcome upon request.

Yha Wasdale Hall

In a grand old hall, this excellent value Youth Hostel is magnificently set above the shore of the southern end of Wastwater. It is a dramatic and remote setting.

The downside is that there is no parking on site and it is a 45-minute walk to the Saw Mill cafe in Nether Wasdale, and a 1-hour and 45-minute walk along the road to Wasdale Head..

The recently introduced Wasdale Explorer passes by, but make sure you time your journeys carefully.

Scafell View Apartment

This two-bedroom apartment (1 double and 2 single beds) situated on the hills above Wastwater, is a good option for a family with a car. The apartment comes with a lounge and kitchen with good facilities.

Lovely views and well located to explore the area. The Mosedale Round leaves from close to the front door. 3-night minimum. 15-minute drive to Wasdale Head.

The “Big W” Ranch

Set on the side of the Wasdale Valley with views over Scafell and Wastwater, the Big W Ranch is half of a farmhouse. It comprises 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a lounge, a kitchen, and a hot tub conservatory.

Anyone interested in horses should check it out. They have a pure-bred Spanish Horse Breeding Stud, as well as Alpacas and Highland cattle. Paddleboard hire is available. No dogs allowed, and it’s a 20-minute drive to Wasdale Head.

Campsites

Wasdale National Trust Campsite

At the head of Wastwater, on the shores of the lake, this National Trust run campsite is very quiet and peaceful.

It has 100 natural tent pitches scattered across the campsite, in fields and under trees. Campervans (no caravans) are parked on hardstanding pitches with electric hook-up by the car park.

Not got a tent or van? No problem; there is a range of pods, from basic to furnished, and tipis that sleep three adults or two adults with two children.

There’s a small shop (milk, eggs and bread), showers and toilets, as well as laundry, washing up and drying facilities.

The easy route up Scafell Pike leaves right from the campsite. The only downside is that the Wasdale Head Inn is a 20-minute walk along the road, and there is a 2-night minimum. Book ahead in summer holidays and weekends.

Wasdale Inn Campsite

Attached to the Wasdale Head Inn, this campsite is much more basic. Tents are pitched in a field opposite the pub (£10 per person), and the showers (£1 coin) are more rudimentary. But it has some distinct advantages.

It is significantly cheaper than the National Trust campsite; the Wasdale Head Inn is right next door for food and drink; the inn serves a camper’s breakfast from 8 am to 9.30 am; and there’s no 2-night minimum.

If you are following a multi-day hike, dropping into Wasdale and leaving the next day, then this is the better camping option. They only take walk-ins, and you cannot book in advance. But the manager told me they have never turned anyone away.

How to Get to Wasdale Head

Wasdale Head is remote and is not quickly accessible from the rest of the Lake District.

There are three ways to get to Wasdale Head: by car, by bus, and on foot.

By Car

Driving from the more popular spots in the Lake District takes time. From Keswick it takes 1 hour 20 minutes, from Ambleside 1 hour 40 minutes and from Windermere 1 hour 45 minutes.

The last 20 minutes (between Nether Wasdale and Wasdale Head) is absolutely stunning, with wonderful views over Wastwater and up to Great Gable and Scafell Pike. But the road is single-lane, with passing spots, and during summer holidays or sunny weekends can be very busy.

There are three decent-sized car parks, all run by the National Trust: Overbeck Car Park, Lakehead Car Park, and Wasdale Head (The Green) Car Park – see map above. You can find prices and details on the National Trust website. Download the JustPark app before setting off.

The car parks can fill up fast in peak season, but one of the benefits of staying a night in the valley is that you will have somewhere to park even during busy periods.

By Bus

A couple of years ago, a new bus route was introduced to help with traffic.

The Wasdale Explorer shuttles people up and down the valley between May and the end of August. There are 6 buses a day between May and mid-July, rising to about 12 buses a day over the summer holidays. It costs £3 all day.

You can pick up the bus at Ravenglass, Gosforth, Muncaster Castle, Greengarth, or Nether Wasdale (where there is a car park to leave your car). Ravenglass is on the Northern Train Line from Lancaster.

By Foot

By far the most fun way to arrive at Wasdale Head is to hike in. There are three excellent routes.

One from Buttermere heads over Scarth Gap Pass and Black Sail Pass. Another from Langdale heads up Rossett Gill, over Esk Hause and down Moses Trod. Finally, you can hike in over Styhead Pass from Borrowdale.

The first two routes can be combined on an excellent multi-day hike, which can be done by sleeping in your tent at campsites or staying in inns, hotels and B&Bs.

It is our favourite way to see the Lake District, and you can find the route and booking details on the 3-5-day Lake District Hike. In my younger days, I camped, but on my last multi-day hike I treated myself to hotels and pubs.

Tips for Visiting Wasdale

Here are a few helpful tips for visiting Wasdale.

Wasdale is remote; there is no decent food shop, so bring any supplies you need.

The Barn Door Shop in Wasdale Head sells an extensive array of hiking equipment in case you forget or break something.

There is no mobile signal in the valley, so download what you need (especially maps) in advance. The hotels & B&Bs do have wi-fi.

If you have a car, and plan to use paid car parks bring cash or download the JustPark app before departing so you can pay remotely. The parking machines in Wasdale do not take card.

Many of the car parks are run by the National Trust and cost roughly £10 per day. However, parking is free for members, so if you are touring the Lake District, consider joining the National Trust.

The best time to visit Wasdale is May & June, when the days are long, the weather is most likely to be dry, and the summer holidays have not yet arrived. September & October are a bit wetter, but the hills have turned a lovely reddish brown.

If you are heading to Wasdale in July & August, try to get here early (before 9am) to avoid traffic on the single-lane road.

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